Wednesday, July 16, 2025

writing and walking and...

I did one museum this week, the Museum of the Resistance. (To fascism) There's nothing much to take pictures of. Recorded testimony mostly about Jewish people hiding, or having loved ones deported to concentration camps. 

The recorded voices are in Italian, and i understood some. English subtitles let me understand more. Of course in 2025, nearly all these people are gone. It's good something of their experience remains. 

I was hoping more for experiences of antifascisti here, people who didn't vote the fascists in and fought them in small ways though their neighbors or relatives were gung ho on the idea. Not really what it was. More an interesting offshoot of the story of Jews in Germany and Poland and France... But set in Italy. 

i walk every morning. I eat. I write every day. 55000 words on a new novel, partly set in Italy. 

Local park with swings for kids. Always a couple of old guys staring or reading a paper in small parks. 

Saturday, July 12, 2025

walking around town

Things are old here. Hence, repairs are ongoing.
Checking out, typical small grocery store 
The Palatine gate. One of the few remaining Roman things here. Big gate openings are for chariots. 
Some piazza's view.reflecting fountains in front of the Museum of Unification.
Nice big park not quite a mile away from my apt.
A statue in that park, monument to police 
Pizza Saturdays is my new thing. By the slice, $6 for this, margherita and melanzane (🍆) pizza. Ate at 1:30, so no supper needed. 

Thursday, July 10, 2025

last thoughts on criminal museum


This criminologist got so famous, people could be convicted on his measurements and testimony alone.

One poor woman, he characterized: "alters between lust and lightheartedness. Wants money. Enjoys dance and shows and violent novels. Passes from sadness to joy, friendship to anger." (Sentenced to death)

That could be my Tinder profile. That could be anyone's, right?

Luckily a judge commuted her sentence to life in prison.

One guy's clothes, made of bleached ropes, were proof positive of criminality. His reverent weekly washing of them was also derided. But now they're pretty sure they were a regional Alpine festival outfit. Maybe he clung to them because they were his nonno's, or memories of a happy time. Or just the one vestige of his true humanity he could cling to in prison. 

Finally, the prisoner art was fascinating. They hand drew decks of cards. A fan had cherubs playing violins. One enterprising fellow carved a company of uniformed toy soldiers with huge erect penises, tips painted in red. It felt downright political. One excellent watercolor of a couple dressed up for the opera. A careful line drawing of a lead coin. "Me, at eight" self-portrait. It was good! Yet except for one guy, who had a design theme that made you want to analyze its meaning, all those names are lost...unless the skull has the name and crime penned on it, but even then, it isn't attached to the art. 

By the end, I decided this criminologist was not a bad man. He believed criminals were born that way, and torturing them in any sense was cruel. Putting them to death was, he thought, more humane. He did bad science, was his crime. His skull is there too. Apropos.

His will was displayed, and this got to me, deeply. (I translate. ):

"I beg my loved ones not to grieve because I happily abandon life at a time in which being Italian virtually arouses shame."

I very much understand that feeling. 





Tuesday, July 8, 2025

Museo di Antropologia Criminale Cesare Lombroso

A bizarre and fascinating museum about.... (Drum roll) Phrenology.



And other such wrongheaded ideas about what makes people criminal or mentally ill. Lots of skulls. No photos allowed, but I snuck one. 

and what I'm going to do is cut and paste all of my discussion/thoughts with AI while here. Before AI, i had such discussions in my own head.

In museum of criminology. Tattoos were a sure sign. One guy, a sailor, had "la colbute" tattooed on his leg. Google translate is no help. A foreign place?

AI. Ah, that’s a fascinating detail—especially from a museum of criminology, where tattoos were often seen as "marks" of deviance in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

"La colbute" is likely a misspelling or variant spelling of "la culbute" in French.

Here's what it means:

"La culbute" literally means a somersault or a tumble.

Figuratively, it can mean:

A fall from grace or sudden downfall.

In slang, especially older French argot, it could refer to:

A quick sexual encounter.

A scam or swindle.

Even death or getting hanged, depending on context and period.

In the world of criminal tattoos, especially among sailors or convicts, symbolic language often carried layered meanings. If this was tattooed on his leg, it might refer to:

Surviving a close call (a fall or escape).

A tumble into crime or prison.

Or, a nod to a prostitute or a sexual conquest, if it's the more bawdy meaning.

So you're absolutely right not to trust Google Translate here—context and period slang are everything. Want help building that into a character or scene? This kind of thing has great story potential.

Me: Oh, lots of prostitute tats!

AI. Absolutely—those old criminal tattoos were full of prostitutes, pin-ups, hearts, names, initials, and sexual slang. Especially among sailors, soldiers, and convicts, tattoos often reflected a mix of:

Love, lust, and loss (women’s names, hearts pierced by daggers, pin-up girls)

Boasts and bonds ("true love," "death before dishonor," or prison brotherhood mottos)

Gallows humor and anti-authority messages

And sometimes, coded references—sexual conquests, favorite brothels, or slang for experiences they couldn't write openly


In early criminology (especially late 1800s to early 1900s), guys like Cesare Lombroso tried to read these tattoos as signs of "born criminality." A sailor with “la culbute” or a naked woman on his thigh? Lombroso would've said: proof of degeneracy.

But to us today, they’re cultural breadcrumbs—clues to secret codes, personal histories, and whole subcultures.

If you're writing this into a scene, there's so much flavor in the way characters might read or misread these tattoos: what they reveal, what they try to hide, and how lawmen or scientists interpret them with bias. Want some era-specific slang or tattoo designs to add texture?

Me: whole thing is Au bout de fosse la culbute

AI. Now that sounds like a classic bit of old underworld or prison slang—poetic and grim.

"Au bout de fosse, la culbute"

Literally: "At the end of the pit, the tumble."

Here’s how to break it down:

"Au bout de fosse" – At the end of the pit / grave / trench.

Fosse is old or poetic French for a pit or a grave, as in a burial site.


"La culbute" – The tumble / somersault / downfall.

As we said earlier, it can mean a downfall, execution, or in slang, a sexual encounter, scam, or the end—especially in a violent sense.



Likely meanings:

1. "At the grave’s edge, the fall" – a fatal end, maybe a hanging or execution.


2. Could also be read as a metaphor for dying—the final tumble into the grave.


3. Or, in the prisoner's gallows humor way: a poetic turn of phrase for getting caught and punished, or just the inevitable end of a criminal life.

It feels like something a lifer might have tattooed as a mix of fatalism and bravado.

In a story?

A character with that tattoo might be someone who’s already accepted death—or dares it. It could also be a prison saying that the guards misunderstand, thinking it's just gibberish, while inmates know exactly what it means: you end up in the hole, then you drop.

Want a few more like this? The old French argot is a treasure chest.

Me. No. Forehead tattoo. Stay the same. In French.

AI: Oh, that’s haunting—and kind of brilliant.

“Reste le mĂȘme” — Stay the same, on the forehead?

That's bold. Permanent. Almost defiant.
It feels like someone marking themselves with an unchanging identity, no matter what the system does to them.

In a prison or criminology museum context, it could mean:

“I won’t change” – a declaration of stubbornness or resistance.

“I am who I am” – identity locked in, unashamed, unbroken.

Or maybe even fatalism – life, suffering, crime... it all rolls on, and the person stays the same at their core.


Tattoos on the forehead were rare, extreme, and often meant the person had already been cast out—by society, by the law, maybe by themselves. It screams: I don’t care what you see when you look at me.

As a writer—

That phrase could say everything about a character in three words. Imagine someone who’s been through the wringer—abuse, prison, war, betrayal—and still claims that line like a badge. Whether it’s pride or delusion or tragedy… "Reste le mĂȘme" could carry all of it.

me: all self done. Those penis tats must have hurt!

Oh absolutely—all self-done tattoos, especially in prisons or among the underclass in the 19th and early 20th centuries, were crude, painful, and full of meaning. And yeah... penis tattoos? That’s dedication (or madness, or both).

These weren’t done with modern tools. Think:

A needle or sharpened wire, dipped in soot or ink.

No anesthesia. No hygiene.

Often done alone, in secret, with makeshift instruments.


Tattooing the genitals was:

A mark of extreme toughness—a way of saying “I fear nothing.”

Sometimes part of a ritual of initiation into criminal brotherhoods or prison cliques.

Occasionally hypersexual bragging—tattoos of women, hearts, phrases like “prends-moi” (take me), or downright obscene images.

Or, depending on the individual, it might have been self-punishment, or a way to desecrate the body as a final rejection of social norms.


And it’s easy to forget now, but these tattoos were not decorative. They were biographies. Testimonies. Warnings. In a place where words were risky, and reputations made or broken in silence, the skin told your story.

The pain of a self-made tattoo—especially there—was part of the point. It proved something.

If you’re writing a character like this, there’s a goldmine in:

What they choose to ink

Where

How crudely it's done

And how others read those signs—or misread them

Let me know if you want to build a symbolic tattoo for a character. These markings can do a lot of narrative heavy lifting.

Me: Weapons. Beautiful knives, bone inlays, carved blades. Poison from a poisoning doctor. A couple things I'd rather not guess at. Most spooky, large metal crucifixes sharpened into.... like vampire stakes.

AI: Oof. That’s the real stuff. The kind of museum where you feel the temperature drop just standing near the cases.

Those sharpened crucifixes—that’s pure gothic horror meets street survival. Brutality disguised in devotion. You can just imagine someone walking into a cell or a tenement flat, clutching their “faith”… and inside, it’s a weapon. Blessed are the armed, in that world.

And then:

Beautiful knives, likely hand-crafted or lovingly customized. They weren’t just tools—they were extensions of the self. Even the elegant ones had blood on their stories.

Poison from a “poisoning doctor”? Now that’s sinister. Possibly a quack, or someone who went full dark arts—arsenic, belladonna, strychnine. That’s murder by intimacy. You have to be close. You have to plan.

And yeah… the unnameables. Every museum like this has one or two objects that make you pause and go: “I don’t want to know what that was for.” You feel it in your spine before you even read the label.


What you’re seeing isn’t just crime—it’s desperation, ingenuity, fear, dominance, power games, and twisted faith. It’s the shadow world that polite society tried to pretend wasn’t there.

But in that museum, it’s all laid bare—objects as confessions.
And the scariest thing? Most of it was done by people who thought they had no other choice.

Haunting, isn’t it?

Me:Hundreds of skulls. Crime sometimes printed on forehead. Prostitute. Brigande. Ladro.

Me: still in Lombroso museum!

AI:  Ah, Lombroso.
Of course. That explains everything you're seeing.

You’re in the heart of the 19th-century obsession with criminal anthropology—where Cesare Lombroso tried to "scientifically" prove that criminals were born, not made. That their skulls, their jaws, even their tattoos, were outward signs of an inner rot.

And so:

Hundreds of skulls → Measured, catalogued, compared. He believed certain bone shapes (sloping foreheads, jawlines, asymmetries) marked “atavism”—evolutionary throwbacks to more "primitive" beings.

Crimes carved on foreheads → Not just for display, but as “data.” To him, a prostitute wasn’t a person; she was a category, a specimen.

Tattoo studies → Lombroso obsessively recorded prisoner tattoos, seeing them as proof of depravity, irrationality, or tribal criminal identity.

Sharpened crucifixes, penis tattoos, all of it → To him, these weren’t signs of desperation or trauma. They were signs of moral degeneracy.

The chilling part? He thought he was doing good. He wanted to help society by identifying its “dangerous types”—but his ideas justified profiling, sterilization, and lifelong imprisonment based on looks and background alone.

And even now, you can feel the cold logic in those displays:

> "Here’s a skull. Here’s the crime. Look closely. Don’t you see it?"

But no, you don’t. You see a life ended, stripped of dignity. And the crime, more often than not, was poverty, hunger, sex, rebellion, bad luck.

You’re standing in one of the eeriest museums in Europe. A monument to a time when science was used not to understand people—but to judge and dehumanize them.

It’s disturbing. And unforgettable.
And it makes you think harder about every label society still slaps on the living.

Me: Don't be black here, back then.

AI: 
Yeah. Exactly. You feel it in your gut, standing in front of those skulls and labels—you already know who never stood a chance in systems like that.

Lombroso’s theories weren’t just wrong—they were dangerous. And though he focused on Italians, Romani, women, the poor, rebels—his ideas laid the groundwork for the pseudoscientific racism that swept through Europe and beyond. Craniometry. Eugenics. "Primitive" types. It all snowballed.

So yes:

> Don’t be poor, don’t be born in the South, don’t be a woman, don’t be black, don’t resist, don’t stand out.

Or your skull ends up in a drawer, with one brutal word carved into it.

Museums like that hit hard because they expose how "objective science" can be used to serve power, control, and prejudice. Lombroso thought he was helping society—but he was helping it build a cage for people who couldn’t defend themselves.

And what’s left now?
Glass cases.
Labels.
A room full of silence that still accuses.

You’re not just looking at history. You’re feeling its echo.

(... More tomorrow. )





Monday, July 7, 2025

I'm living an enhanced "normal" life

Here's my writing set-up.

Starting with the heat wave in Ferrara and Verona, which was brutal, I began writing again, a tennis romance (#4) with a tall dark handsome Italiano man and an American physiotherapist named Lucy. I'm approacing 30000 words after 3.5 weeks, slower than my typical pace but pretty good considering equipment and having other things to do.

It's a fun life. I'm still traveling in a foreign country, learning things, exploring history and culture and daily life. I'm also living daily normal public life, speaking this melodious language exclusively once I walk out the door. It's the life I'd be living if I were to move here. (Minus the Segway I'd definitely buy were I a FT resident!)

It's a good balance. And if I moved here, I'd keep doing travel, taking little overnight trips on a train to a new place to explore more for two days, plus half a day as a tourist to more obscure places in the town I settled in, the rest of days writing, cooking, shopping the fresh veg, fruit market and cheese counters, walking recycling out every few days to the bins that are everywhere for everyone to use, getting to know my neighbors, slowly, as is the Italian way. And assuming I'd live on the Adriatic coast, which I would, wading or swimming every morning six months, and walking the coast or hills in a jacket when winter arrived, getting to know my sea in it's hibernal mood and the green edges of town. 

It's not impossible this is my future. 

Sunday, July 6, 2025

walk along the Po


I walked 12 km south along the Po River. 

Birds like this heron

Rowers and kayakers
and from time to time an old building  like this, Castle of Valentino. 30 rooms on each floor on the side I could see. French Baroque, like a lot of Turin.
the only medieval wall I've seen in Torino. It might not be authentic, but a recreation. 
and statues and monuments to the Unification. Garabaldi was like George Washington, but more fashion forward
and statues I couldn't figure out
as you can see, a bit rainy, but finally cool enough as a result to walk a long way.

I was beat. I have mild shin splints again today. But it was nice. No regrets.

I'm understanding more and more conversations in Italian. I seemed to be the only tourist using the multi -use path along the river and through a huge park. 

As rural as these shots look, it's the heart of Turin. 

Turin wasn't much in Roman or Medieval times. It's largely a creation of the Savoy Dynasty. I asked AI about this, and it said, fairly: 

“Turin feels freshly pressed compared to other Italian cities—more royal chessboard than ancient labyrinth. It’s Italy, yes, but dressed in Baroque symmetry and Savoy ambition, not Roman dust.”

Thursday, July 3, 2025

Egyptian museum part 2

I'm falling behind. 

Fabrics from a tomb. About a third of them
A few trim pieces had remaining color 
King Kha, outer then inner mummy cases

Spells from the Book of the Dead, on a singer's mummy case. Second intermediate period
Same tomb. Painting of her chatting with a godancient Egyptian beaders were busy. Faience beads
mummified animals. A Third Kingdom innovation. 
mummies in a dark room, past a door, so as not to offend Muslim visitors who don't like seeing them. 
Great place. I was wiped out after 3 hours there. 


Monday, June 30, 2025

Egyptian museum part 1

Ever since I've had conversations with hosts about my future plans and said I'd be in Turin, they all said I had to go to this museum. With the second biggest collection of ancient Egyptian artifacts outside the (problematic) Cairo museum, it's a must-see 

Organized well, it starts you at 3500 BCE.

naturally mummified burial. 5500 years old
stone jars, bowls. 3300 BCE
the oldest painting on linen in the world 
a surving linen tunic, 3100 BCE
a coffin, ropes needed to haul it. Funerary jars. Sandals for the dead.
a single kingly burial, 2800 BCE. From Italian excavations from 1896-1920, when it was still legal to take such things from the host county. You can tell the wealth of the deceased from how many things are wood. Wood was rare and expensive.
thank heavens for maps on the wall. It's a big museum. 

Sunday, June 29, 2025